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Sunday, March 15, 2015

A Great Wearable Muslin Jacket - Butterick 5926.



I want to make a fleecy jacket (sweatshirt fleecy in the U.S., tracksuit fleecy here ) for smart casual wear for the cooler months. 

The pattern I think would work for this is Butterick 5926:


This is a simple, unlined jacket sized for knits.  It has a centre back seam and front darts, and one piece sleeves:



Two lengths with patch pockets and two sleeve lengths.  I chose the shorter jacket, with long sleeves.  I rummaged through the stash and found this piece of knit, a polyester/nylon rib knit that I didn't like (I'm not a polyester person) purchased on one of Spotlight's special buy tables for $5.00 a metre.  I thought it would be ideal for trialing this jacket:


First I made a quick muslin - even fabrics I don't like and am going to make into a test/muslin garment get a quick fitting muslin:


I cut size 10 for most of the garment, with size 12 through the sides as I found that the jacket was just too fitted for my mid section.  The darts were fine, the waist needed to be raised - which I did just by changing the shape of the jacket to more of an A-line from the point where my waist was.  I also took in the shoulder by half an inch.  I shortened the sleeves along the lower L/S line by one inch/2 cm approx.  I was unsure where the elbow dart would end ; in the finished garment it looked low but when I bent my elbow was in the right place.

Then I made my trial jacket, which made up quickly and easily.  I do not like sewing with knits, but this fabric was a dream to sew.  I interfaced the facings and collars with a lightweight stretch interfacing:


 I topstitched all edges about 1 cm in - I liked the defined chunkiness of this amount as it went with the textured rib pattern:


I made a small mistake cutting the jacket and did not properly align my stripes on the jacket fronts, which didn't matter because I realised my mistake and did cut the facings properly.  But it did mean that if I cut the pockets with the stripes running down, the mistake would be obvious. So I cut them horizontally instead, which actually looks really good:


I decided to close the jacket with snaps and then put a button on the side you expect the button.  I can do good buttonholes on knits ( I have my own way of stabilising the inside of the buttonhole which I will teach you one day).  The snaps and buttons do line up, but I didn't do a good job of aligning them when dressing my dummy:



The inside was just overlocked, hem overlocked and turned up.  Hard to see on black, of course:


Now for pictures of moi wearing the jacket:




I hate the standing still poses, especially the showing you the back shots, because in real life, you actually move and clothes look quite different:


So, that is my new wearable muslin jacket, made out of a fabric I do not like.   Strangely, I now like this jacket a lot, and am already wearing it.  It has a bit of warmth for wearing in air-condititoning or cooler days, and it is comfortable.  So from a fabric in my stash that I did not like to a jacket in my wardrobe I love.

Sewing doesn't get much better than that!


I love this little pattern and it will go into my will make again TNT's.  I think this will make a great alternative to cardigans - I can see many versions in all sorts of different knits.

But first, the fleece jacket, as planned....and which I hope to show you soon :)

Have a great week everyone, wherever you are,

Sarah Liz

51 comments:

  1. Fabulous jacket SarahLiz. Love the fabric too.

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  2. Your jacket looks great! I can't even tell there was an issue with the stripes - not even noticeable. :) And I love the pockets. I'm looking forward to seeing the fleecy version!

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    1. Thanks Heather - fleecy is cut, can't wait to see what it's like myself :)

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  3. Love it!!! And the idea to put snaps covered with buttons is awesome!!!

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    1. Thank you - yes, it's a handy little trick :)

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  4. Love it! Great outcome. Guess that makes up for all the test drives that didn't work out.

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    1. Thank you - and making up for the wadders is what sewing is all about :)

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  5. Great jacket, Sarah Liz. I love the subtle stripes and the fit is superb.

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    1. Thank you Kathy - I think this would work for you as well :)

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  6. oh, this is nice. I think you should make at least 2, because the fleece stretches out at a bit when worn. What color are you using?

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    1. Thank you Mary - I had wondered about stretching,so I will make one for now and work out how it performs. Black.

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  7. I can see why you love this jacket, practical, casually smart and comfortable too. It looks great on you. I like the idea of using snaps instead of buttons.

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    1. Thank you Tracy - yes, all those things which, as you say, is why I love it :)

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  8. Nice jacket! A great basic. In glad you love it, now. I'm assuming your fleece jacket will look a lot more casual - what colour are you planning?

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    1. Thank you Anne - yes, it's a win when you like a wearable muslin. The next one will be black as well.

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  9. Nice jacket! A great basic. In glad you love it, now. I'm assuming your fleece jacket will look a lot more casual - what colour are you planning?

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  10. That looks so good Sarah Liz, and you whipped it up in no time! I love how you pose to show off the garments. Maybe one day you could give us some tips on how to do this. I really have no idea how to stand for such pics.

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    1. Thank you. The jacket is easy to sew and make, so it doesn't take long. And after all DH's nightshirts I know how to make these collars! I'll write a post about posing one day.

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  11. Fabulous jacket - you are on a roll!

    This would be lovely in a medium weight wool ponte.

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    1. Thank you. Yes, I agree - I need to find such a fabric first, but when I do I know I have a pattern that works for it :)

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  12. so cute!
    love the way the stripes on the pockets create interest by going horizontal...
    :-)

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    1. Thank you - yes, I agree, pockets look great :)

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  13. You jacket looks wonderful Sarah. I've been wanting to make a knit jacket from that pattern ever since it came out.

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    1. Thank you Faye - you must make it, it would be just right for you:)

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  14. I just love it when a muslin becomes something you love and love to wear. It's a win, win!

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  15. This jacket looks really good on you. It looks like a versatile jacket that you can wear with lots of things. I like all the details you put into jacket,e.g. the horizontal stripes for the pockets. Great job!

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    1. Thank you - yes, I like garments which offer maximum mix and match potential :)

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  16. A great comfy jacket that looks really smart. I like what you say about clothes looking different when they are moving. I often think that when I see some things walking around... I bet it looked ok when they were standing still, but it looks bad when it's moving!

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    1. Thank you - and I love your reverse twist on the theme of how an when clothes look good or not :)

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  17. Sarah Liz, this is a great little jacket. Love the pocket detail :)

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  18. Oh I really like this jacket on you! Isn't it funny how you begin a project not especially liking the fabric.... and by the end it's won you over?! Look forward to seeing your fleece jacket!!

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    1. Thank you Lisa. I agree, these are the best sorts of projects - no expectations at the beginning, so no pressure, and then a win :)

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  19. Very nice jacket - and I love the 'designer' pockets!!

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  20. Fantastic jacket, the fit looks perfect and love how you have used the stripes and so glad you now enjoy wearing the fabric.

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    1. Thank you Sharon - it's amazing what you can do with stripes :)

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  21. The fit is really nice and you made the wearable muslin work. I can definitely see this as a TNT.

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    1. Thank you - and yes, this will be in my TNT pile :)

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  22. It looks really great -- it is also a winner when it becomes a TNT. The fabric was such a good choice with the cut of the jacket. I bet you will get a lot of wear out of this especially in the coming autumn.

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    1. Thanks, I love it, because it has the comfort of a cardigan but the look of a jacket, so I will get lots of wear from it :)

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